New to needlepoint? Start here.

Everything you need for your first canvas: what to buy, which threads go with which mesh, how big your finished piece will be, and the two stitches that will carry you through almost any design.

If you can thread a needle, you can needlepoint.

What is needlepoint?

Needlepoint is stitching with thread through a stiff, open-weave canvas. The design is already on the canvas, so there is no pattern to count: you simply cover each painted color with a matching thread, one small diagonal stitch at a time. When you are done, the canvas becomes an ornament, a key fob, a pillow, a framed piece or a bag insert.

Pick a canvas. Choose a design you love. Smaller and 13 mesh is the easiest place to start.
Match your threads. One thread color for each painted color. Every canvas page lists my recommended threads.
Stitch & finish. Cover the canvas in tent stitch, then pop it into a self-finishing piece or send it to a finisher.

Hand-painted vs. printed

Many of my designs come both ways, and every product page says which one you are buying. Both stitch beautifully; the difference is in how the color sits on the canvas, and the price.

Hand-painted

I paint each canvas by hand, so the color is laid down to follow the mesh. Edges are crisp and it is clear which color each stitch should be. A small-batch, heirloom canvas.

Easiest to read while stitching
Richer, more saturated color
Takes longer to make, so it costs more

Example: Boston Stamp, hand-painted, $85–$88

Printed

The same artwork, printed onto canvas. Where two colors meet, a hole may show a little of both, so you just choose one. A great, affordable way to try your first design.

Same design for a lower price
You make small color calls along edges
Perfect for practice and gifting

Example: Boston Stamp, printed, $50

Studio Seconds: printed canvases with a small imperfection (softer colors, a slightly off-straight line). They stitch up just fine and are priced lower, which makes them ideal for a first try. Shop Studio Seconds.

Mesh & canvas sizes

Mesh is the number of holes per inch. Fewer holes means bigger stitches: the work goes faster and is easier on the eyes. More holes means smaller stitches and finer detail. I offer many designs in 13, 16 and 18 mesh.

13 mesh: bigger holes, quicker stitching, bolder look. Best for beginners.
16 mesh: a happy middle: more detail than 13, a little more forgiving than 18.
18 mesh: small, fine stitches and crisp detail. Ideal for ornaments, fobs and tiny designs.

Same design, different sizes

The same design stitched on a finer mesh comes out smaller. Each listing gives two numbers: the stitching area (the design you stitch) and the canvas size, which adds about 2" of blank margin on every side for framing or finishing.

Tip: if you want a bigger finished piece with the same look, choose 13 mesh. For a mini ornament or key fob, choose 18.

What you need to get started

My canvases are sold without threads, so you can pick exactly the fibers you like. Here is the full list.

A canvas. Hand-painted or printed. Start small: under about 5" on 13 mesh.
Threads. One color per painted color. See the recommended threads under each canvas, or the guide below.
A tapestry needle. Blunt tip, large eye. Size 20 for 13 mesh; size 22 for 16 and 18 mesh.
Small, sharp scissors. For clean thread ends: Mini Scissors ($4) or Blue Heron Crane Scissors ($16.99).
Nice to have: a needleminder. A magnet that holds your needle on the canvas between stitches, like the Boston Needleminder ($17).
Nice to have: a project bag. Keeps your canvas, threads and tools together: Hydrangea Project Bags, the Vineyard Summer Project Bag or the Jelly Stitch & Go Tote.

Optional extras: stretcher bars or a scroll frame keep the canvas taut, and a good lamp makes 18 mesh much easier.

Which thread should I use?

Threads come on cards (about 10 yards) or in skeins (longer lengths). The main thing is matching the thickness to your mesh, so the stitches cover the canvas without crowding it. Here is everything I carry.

On 13 mesh: Planet Earth Wool, Milan, DMC Soft Cotton
On 16 mesh: Pepper Pot, Milan, Reflections
On 18 mesh: Pepper Pot, Essentials, Reflections (Milan works here too)

Pepper Pot (Tilli Tomas)

100% silk with a soft sheen. My go-to on 18 mesh canvases. 10-yard cards, $3.50. Made for 18 mesh and works on 16; some stitchers use it on 13 for a lighter look. One 10-yard card covers roughly 5 sq in on 18 mesh.

Milan (Tilli Tomas)

50% silk, 50% merino wool. A plump, glossy strand that fills 13 mesh beautifully and also works on 18. 10-yard cards, $4. One 10-yard card covers roughly 5 sq in on 13 mesh in basketweave.

Essentials (Tilli Tomas)

50% merino, 50% silk. Soft and matte with a little glow; designed for 18 mesh and great for backgrounds. 30-yard skeins ($7.25) and 10-yard cards. A skein covers about 16 sq in in basketweave.

Planet Earth Wool

100% merino wool. Classic, forgiving, durable and easy to stitch evenly. Best on 13 mesh, which makes it a lovely first thread. 30-yard skeins, $7.25. Covers about 20 sq in on 13 mesh.

Reflections (Tilli Tomas)

90% silk, 10% metallic. A touch of sparkle for highlights, water, snow and holiday details. 10-yard skeins. Best on 16 and 18 mesh.

DMC Soft Cotton

100% cotton with a matte finish. Used as one strand (it doesn't separate). Budget-friendly and a classic on 13 mesh. 10-yard skeins, $2.10.

How much thread do I need?

Estimate the area of each color in square inches and compare it to the coverage above. Small accent colors usually need just one card; backgrounds often need a skein or two. Easiest of all: every canvas page has a Recommended Threads section, or email me at MF.Designs.02539@gmail.com and I will help you pull colors.

Your first stitches

Almost every canvas is worked in tent stitch: a small diagonal stitch over one crossing of the canvas, every stitch slanting the same way (from lower left to upper right). There are two ways to work it.

Continental stitch

Work in straight rows: right to left, then turn and come back left to right. Best for outlines, lettering and small details.

Basketweave stitch

Work in diagonal rows, going up one row and down the next. It looks the same from the front but keeps the canvas from pulling out of shape, so use it for backgrounds and larger areas.

Diagrams courtesy of Julia Dapron, Forget Me Not Needleworks.

Step by step

Cut your thread. About 18" long. Longer pieces tangle and wear thin as they pass through the canvas.
Start with a waste knot. Knot the end and bring the needle down from the front about an inch away, in the path you are about to stitch. Stitch toward the knot, covering the tail on the back, then snip the knot off.
Work light to dark. Stitch white and pale areas first, then the darker colors, so dark fibers don’t get pulled into light stitches.
Keep an easy tension. Snug, not tight: the thread should lie flat and cover the canvas. Every so often, let the needle dangle so the thread untwists.
Fill the background. Switch to basketweave for big areas of one color.
End neatly. On the back, run the needle under about an inch of finished stitches and trim close. Avoid carrying thread across long gaps; it can show through.

Tips & tricks

Light colors first. Fuzzy fibers from darker threads can catch in pale stitches and dull them. Stitching the light areas first keeps them clean.
Don’t carry dark thread behind light areas. It can show through. End the thread and start again instead.
Smooth before fuzzy. Stitch silk and cotton before wool so the fuzz doesn’t get pulled into the smooth areas.
Near light areas, trim dark tails a little long (about ¼") so they don’t get caught in the next stitches.
Lay a dark cloth on your lap when stitching light colors, and a light one for dark colors. It makes the holes much easier to see.
Stuck? Undo a stitch by unthreading the needle and gently pulling it out with the needle tip. Don’t pull hard; it can stretch the canvas.

When you're done

Self-finishing: no sewing needed. Trim your mini canvas and slip it into a ready-made piece, like the Hot Pink Luggage Tag or the Self-Finishing Project Bag.

Professional finishing: for ornaments, pillows and framed pieces, I recommend a professional needlepoint finisher. Keep your finished piece out of direct sun, and spot-clean gently with cool water if needed.

Beginner-friendly picks

Small, few colors, and quick to finish, so you get that first "I made this" moment fast.

Vermont · $46. About 2" × 1.25". Tiny, simple and quick.
Pink Conch · $45. Just three colors. A relaxing first stitch.
Cow Fob · $25. A petite 18 mesh fob for keys or a zipper.
Studio Seconds · from $32. Printed practice canvases at a lower price.

Stitcher's glossary

Mesh: holes per inch of canvas (13, 16, 18).
Continental / basketweave: two ways to work tent stitch: rows vs. diagonals.
Card / skein: how thread is sold: about 10 yards, or a longer bundle.
Stitching area: the size of the design you actually stitch.
Margin: blank canvas around the design, used in finishing.
Waste knot: a temporary knot that anchors a new thread, then gets snipped.
Needleminder: a decorative magnet that holds your needle.
Self-finishing: a ready-made piece your canvas slips into, no sewing.
WIP: "work in progress": the canvas you're stitching now.

Ready for more? Background stitches

Once tent stitch feels easy, try a decorative stitch on a background. Each one adds texture and covers big areas quickly. Watch how one unit is worked, then repeat it across the canvas.

Learn in person at Stitch & Sip

Bring a canvas (or pick one up there), grab a drink, and stitch with a friendly group. First-timers are always welcome; we hand out an orange star sticker so the regulars know to say hi and help.

See upcoming Stitch & Sip dates on my Events page.

Questions about a canvas, mesh or threads? Email me at MF.Designs.02539@gmail.com.